I finally embarked on my long-awaited trip to Black Canyon of the Gunnison located in Colorado’s natural wonderland.
Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park exists deep inside western Colorado’s challenging wilderness to showcase its breathtaking beauty and its untamed wilderness.
The wilderness atmosphere at Black Canyon National Park remains hidden and unspoiled because it differs from the well-known national parks Grand Canyon and Rocky Mountain National Park.
As I drove toward the park from Montrose, Colorado, the landscape was classic Western Colorado which offered its characteristic view of open sagebrush land together with rolling hills which gradually gave way to distant mountain vistas.
When I arrived at the South Rim entrance of Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park I could feel the untamed nature of this place. The feeling of modesty arises when you position yourself at the edge and observe the endless depths below.
The Black Canyon reaches depths which exceed expectations because it is narrow in shape and steep in slope while maintaining areas of darkness throughout the day.
The South Rim Visitor Center became my starting point where I obtained a trail map and verified my South Rim Campground reservation since camping overnight becomes essential during peak season.
The National Park Service demands recreation.gov reservations for campsites from mid-May through mid-September. Inner canyon hiking visitors must obtain wilderness permits which are available at the visitor center for their wilderness activities or you can buy online.
Rim-Top Warm-Ups: Rim Rock Nature Trail & Gunnison Point
The famous Rim Rock Trail served as my starting point for hiking. The 1-mile path follows the rim between the campground and visitor center while offering direct views into the canyon’s center.
The vertical cliffs extended endlessly into the depths while certain points descended down 2,250 feet toward the Gunnison River. I stopped frequently at every viewpoint to observe the water’s movement and admire the rock formations which are some of the oldest exposed North American rocks that date back two billion years.
Precambrian rocks have experienced erosion from the Gunnison River at a rate of one inch per hundred years.
Exploring the Best Trails in Black Canyon National Park
My second day started with Warner Point Nature Trail which demanded a challenging 1.5-mile journey through the South Rim’s westernmost point. The trail rises gradually through juniper and pinyon pine woodlands to reach an excellent viewpoint which provides sweeping views of the canyon and reaches across to the San Juan Mountains and Uncompahgre Valley.
At the summit I encountered two additional hikers who shared my astonishment. During our snack break we exchanged hiking tales while enjoying the sun and listening to the river’s distant noises that echoed through the canyon below.
The inner canyon hikes within Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park present Colorado hikers with their most demanding climbing opportunities. Visitors who hike the Gunnison Route at the park need to secure permits before they descend steeply to the riverbed because this wilderness route demands solid footing and endurance.
The park rangers warn that these wilderness routes should be considered scrambles instead of regular trails since visitors face the risk of accidents. Before starting your descent make sure to bring enough water along with grippy footwear and hand gloves for rocky surfaces and always notify another person about your route.
I opted not to attempt the descent this trip, but it’s on my bucket list for next time.
Camping Under the Stars
The South Rim Campground provided me with a quiet home base during my visit to the area. Each campsite at the location offers generous space and features picnic tables together with fire rings and multiple pinyon and juniper trees providing shade.
The evenings remained cool while the sunset revealed a spectacular sky show. Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park received its International Dark Sky Park certification because it lacks sufficient artificial light pollution.
I rested on my back while watching meteors pass through the sky and hearing the river’s distant sounds that traveled back up the canyon walls. Campers should bring additional clothing since the nighttime temperatures decrease rapidly even during summertime.
Black Canyon National Park offered me solitude which made me enjoy it the most. The number of visitors at the park remained lower compared to Colorado’s famous park destinations. Pulpit Rock along with Chasm View offered me the chance to see breathtaking views while I stood almost completely alone.
The various viewpoints at the canyon presented different perspectives while each successive view grew more intense.
Nearby Adventures
Multiple exploration paths extend from the main pathways and observation points throughout the park. Visitors who descend the East Portal Road switchbacks will reach the Gunnison River at a depth of 2000 feet while the road remains open during seasonal hours.
The East Portal Campground provides a popular spot for anglers who need to show Colorado fishing licenses for this location. Visitors need to know that the steep winding East Portal Road has restrictions against trailer and large RV traffic.
If you’re up for exploring more of the area, the North Rim is a quieter alternative. It’s accessed via Crawford, Colorado, and has its own set of trails and overlooks, Exclamation Point being the most famous. The drive between the North and South Rims takes about two hours, so plan accordingly.
If you have extra time, don’t miss a visit to Curecanti National Recreation Area, just upstream, where boating, paddleboarding, and fishing are popular. The nearby town of Montrose has plenty of cafes and outdoor stores if you need to resupply.
My Canyon-Crushing Packing List
20 °F down bag
Ultralight freestanding tent
3-L bladder plus 2 L collapsible bottle
Gloves for fixed ropes
Bear-resistant food sack
Sun hoodie and broad-brim hat
Water filter or purifier
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need a permit just to day-hike below the rim?
Yes. Every person entering the inner canyon, even for a single afternoon, must hold a Wilderness Use Permit.
What are the best months to visit?
Late May through early October offer snow-free trails and open facilities. July thunderstorms arrive after noon; start hikes early.
Can I bring my dog on the rim trails?
Pets are allowed on the Cedar Point Nature Trail, the North Rim Chasm View Nature Trail, and campground roads, but never below the rim.
Where can I refill water on the South Rim?
The visitor center spigot operates spring through fall. Carry at least 3 L per person on rim hikes; no potable water exists on trails.
Are campfires allowed in campgrounds?
Yes, inside metal fire rings at the South and North Rim Campgrounds when fire danger is low. Check current fire bans at the entrance kiosk.